All About the Man! Pattern-Making Edition!

Now that you have all the measurements, there is a process in how to measure and draw each measurement. I was able to learn the basics of the process and I thought it was more helpful to have it written down as well as a video.

FYI:

• Each point should be labeled with numbers in order to help you keep track of where you are in the process.
• Use pencil color that is visible to the color of the paper you're using. 
• Draw closer to the edge to save paper.
• As I refer to sections, the patternmaking sections will be abbreviated to "PM" and the measurement sections will be "M".

Patternmaking (PM) Process:

FRONT PM section-

0 - Beginning point
1 - Length of back of neck to waist + 3/8 inch. Square off this line so there is a 90 degree angle from pt. 1
2 - Length of waist to hip or desired length. Square off this line from pt. 2
3 - Scye depth plus 1 1/4 inch from pt 0. Scye measurement will be half of #1 on ARMS section above. Square off from pt 3. This length will be shorter than the length between pt 0 to 1.
*** Scye AKA Arm Scye is a formal fashion design term for armhole.
4 - 1/2 measurement of length between pt 0 to 3. Square off.
5 - 1/4 measurement of length between pt 0 to 4. Square off.
6 - 1/5 neck size. Square off.
7 - 5/8 inch up from pt 6 and then use your french curve to make the neck curve
8, 9, 10 - 1/2 of  back measurement plus 1 inch from pt 3. Square off crossing lines from pt 3 and 4 and you will then create pt 9 and 10.
** Back measurement refers to #4 in the BACK section above
11 - 5/16 inch right of pt 10. Connect pt 7 to 11.
12, 13 -  1/4 of chest measurement plus 1 11/16 inch to the right of pt. 8. Square off down to squared lines of pt 2 to make pt 13.
**Use French Curve ruler to draw the Arm Scye curve from pt 11, through pt 9 and ending at pt 12.
14 - 1/5 of neck circumference subtracting 5/8 inch down from pt 0 and then draw in neckline.

Cut the pattern out.
Tip: Do not cut out the neckline yet, the pattern as is will be vital in making the BACK PM section.

SLEEVE PM (on an entirely new sheet of paper)

0 - Beginning point
1 - 1/2 measurement of FRONT PM section length from pt 3. Square off.
2 - Sleeve length from #5 from pt 0. Square off.
3,4 - Measure length from pt 11 to 12 on completed front pattern add 1 inch, connect from pt 1. Connect pt 0 and 3. Now, connect pt 3 to cross the line squared from pt 2 to make pt 4.
5 - 1/3 of measurement from pt 0 to 3 from pt 3. (this measurement should be half of the line from pt 0 to 3.  Mark the midpoints between pt 3 and 5 as well as between pt 0 and 5.
Now, the sleeve head, which is a wave curve in two parts.
The curve from pt 3 to 5 should have a depth of 5/16 inch and curve under the line.
The curve from pt 0 to 5 should have a depth of 3/4 inch and curve over the line.
** Sleeve Head is the fashion design term for this curve so that the sleeve will fit into the armhole on the FRONT PM section when sewing.
6 - 1/2 wrist circumference plus 2 3/8 inch from pt 2. Connect pt 3 to 6 with straight line or with french curve if necessary.

Cut the pattern out.

Tips:

• Measure armhole and sleeve head and make adjustments if necessary.
• If you would like to make a short sleeve, measure how long you would want your short sleeve to be, trace the completed sleeve pattern and measure from pt 0 the desired length and square off. Cut out the pattern for just the short sleeve. 

BACK PM
For this, you only have to trace your completed front pattern and cut the pattern out.


EXTRA EXTRA!!! Optional Hoodie and Alternative Hem Ideas

HOOD PM (optional)

Measure the front and back of the head.
First the front. Measure the length from the bottom point of the V-neck point to the top of the head in front. Second, measure the back point of the neck to the crown on the back of the head.

**The V-neck point should align with the measurement of the length of the V-neck on the shirt that you measured prior.

Assembly:

Now that you have your patterns, make sure the pattern piece are inside-out. Meaning that the dull side is facing you and the side of the pattern that you would like to be on the outside is facing away from you, like the picture to the right.

Start sew them patterns you cut out, but let's first talk about the stitch.

** Tips **
If you have never used a sewing machine prior to this project, I would suggest practice on a scrap piece of fabric so you can use to the controlling the power and speed of the sewing machine.

The ZIGZAG and STRAIGHT Stitch are the popular stitches, but I personally used both.
First I stitched the patterns in place with a straight stitch and then went over it with a zigzag stitch. to give it extra support. Make sure you flip the fabric inside out before stitching. stitch along the pattern line that was drawn initially when you made the patterns, not on the 1/2" hem area.

Once you've sewn all the pieces, it should look like the following photo on the right which is shown in the inside-out position.